March 03, 2006
Volume 41, Issue 19

 
Janice Tarlecki/ The Advocate

Through the eye of the lens

By Janice Tarlecki

So you want to be a nature photographer….
You have your new digital camera and you’re ready to go out and tackle the world. Maybe you want to be the next Marty Stouffer, known for his “Wild America,” or perhaps you just want to produce beautiful images for yourself and your friends. Whatever the desire, there are some specific tips and tricks that will help you to capture the world through the eye of the lens, and sharpen your skills to “see” the best you can.

The camera will become an extension of the photographers arm, so the first priority is to assess the equipment.
The newest cameras have come a long way from the days of pinholes and “brownies” with darkrooms and “stop bath.” Anything you can do in the darkroom, can now be done with the push of a button on a digital camera. Even the lowest cost cameras can give a decent picture with the right software, but it’s best to get the best shot before the editing process whenever possible.

The next tool a nature photographer cannot live without is a great telephoto lens, in order to capture the elusive animals, birds, or fleeting sunsets up close and personal. If the camera is a digital SLR, any additional lens can be used because of the manual capability. However, an automatic telephoto is worth the extra money because of the ease of use with the auto ISO built in to the digital SLR, or any digital camera with lens adapter capability. In the moment of an eagle swooping to snatch a fish from the river in its huge talons, the photographer may not have time to adjust the manual telephoto and the award-winning shot flew away in the moment.

A wide angle or “fish-eye” lens is the next absolute necessity for the best nature shots. How many times have you stood in front of a magnificent waterfall, so large that it took four “shots” to get all of it, unless you backed up 1,000 feet and then it was too far away for fine detail? That’s where the wide angle or “fish-eye” comes in handy, grasping the entire view from up close, with its concave or convex lens, depending on the style. In the case of Pro digital High definition large convex wide angle/macro lenses, the extremes of the spectrum can be accomplished with one lens. Great wide angles can be captured, and then turn around and shoot a bumblebee at about 5 inches with the same lens. Without a doubt, it will become one of the most useful lenses and a vital part of the nature photographers tools.

A tripod is an absolute necessity, in order to capture the “star-trails” on a long exposure, or the soft blurring of a gentle stream as it trickles over the moss covered rocks. The tripod does not have to be expensive, but it does have to be expandable, sturdy, collapsible and lightweight, hopefully able to fit in a backpack or photo bag, so as not to be left behind. A carbon fiber tripod is best, and it must be a quick-release or the bear will be gone by the time you screw it in. It also acts as an extension of the photographers arm, when the shot takes place over the edge of a cliff, or above a wall or obstacle. Set the camera to “timer” if available, then stretch the camera on the tripod to areas normally unreachable, hold steady, and wait for the “perfect shot.”

People will wonder how you ever got that angle, hanging off the cliff, or looking down from a much higher angle. Combined with the wide angle lens at “Full”, the picture will give the illusion of being shot from a “birds-eye view” or out of a plane.

A few tips to remember in shooting:

1. For less blur, wait for the subject to move into the frame, and use a fast shutter.
2. For best ambient lighting, shoot at morning and evening for overall softer and more colorful tone. Avoid mid-day if possible due to higher contrasting.
3. For star-trails, point the camera at the north star, and leave the shutter open for at least 4 hours on a tripod.
4. Set the shutter to 1/5 second speed for most shots. The slow shutter also gives a fuzzy effect to the water and clouds.
5. Leaves and forests should be shot when they are wet and rainy for more glisten, detail, contrast, and effective reflection.
6. Use a polarizer about 80% of the time to capture the “edge of light.”
7. Never shoot with the sun over your shoulder or you will get strong shadows.
8. Try different angles to capture different lighting and visual aspects.
9. Try to frame the picture, by adding a forward object to give depth perception, and dimensional aspects, giving the illusion of 3-D.
12. Anticipate the photo, and be ready for anything.
13. Know your camera inside and out, and experiment with ISO, Focus, and speeds.
14. Have fun and be as creative as you like.